So, do you want to go to India?” Naturally, I was a bit taken aback when I first heard these words come out of my friend Karissa’s mouth, but the travelphile in me quickly recovered and managed to stammer out, “Um, yeah. Yeah, I do want to go to India.” You see, I had already known Karissa was planning an international adventure. She had informed me of this on a weeklong road trip we took through the southern U.S. a few months before. The kicker, though, is that the trip was to be a gift from her parents in celebration of her recent graduation from Skidmore College, a liberal arts school in upstate New York. They effectively said, “Pick a country, and pick a friend.” She picked India. And to my great surprise, she picked me. A rather nonchalant beginning to a particularly epic journey, I’d say.
The trip was to be a unique one for me. Although I have traveled extensively for my tender age, I have never taken a trip that was: 1) that far East; 2) entirely planned by someone else, without any input or expenditure on my part; and 3) such a seamless integration of cultural immersion and pure luxury, seemingly mutually exclusive approaches to a trip. When I travel of my own account, I always compose the itinerary myself, basing it both on extensive research into the region and the (substantial) limitations of my budget. But because the planning process was entirely in the hands of Karissa’s parents and the India-based travel agency they used, I decided it would be best to completely limit my interaction with anything involving the trip, allowing for every aspect to be a total surprise. In fact, I didn’t read up on the history of India or the places we were to visit, I didn’t mine friends who had been there for information and insight, I didn’t even permit myself to think about the trip. Preventing myself from conjecturing and fantasizing about the experience to come also prevented me from having any Wordsworthian expectations, and allowed my virgin senses to partake of India that much more profoundly and purely upon my actual arrival.
And partake my senses did. One ever-present element is consistent in all descriptions of India: sensory overload. The cacophony of life in all its manifestations was truly inimitable and wonderful. Brilliant shades of saffron, ivory, and every other color on the spectrum pleasantly assaulting the eyes as far as the eyes can see; every sound imaginable fighting to be heard above the rest, from honking car horns to scissors snipping away at a roadside barbershop; teases of cardamom and ginger wafting from open-air markets and mouthwateringly spicy street food at every corner to tempt even the most timid taste buds; urban smells that might offend the delicate nose and euphoric scents that would delight the most particular perfumier; and that electric tingle felt ever so lightly on the skin, generated by the vibrant charge of fast and furious life reacting all around.
The constant sensory frenzy was certainly one of the main highlights of the trip, but it was also the most exhausting aspect. This, however, is where the luxury part of our trip came into play. No sooner did we set foot inside our hotel each night than the tumult and tyranny melted away into an entirely different kind of sensory overload. Recreating paradise and rendering the outside world entirely irrelevant is what each of the hotels we stayed in does best. The magazine TRAVEL + LEISURE seems to agree, ranking each of our hotels in the top 500 hotels in the world. (Yes, Karissa and I made sure to jump on the beds. We also made liberal use of the spas, which match the hotel to which each belongs in splendor and luxury.) We stayed at The Imperial in Delhi, a time warp back to the days of British colonialism; the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra, which had amazing views of the Taj Mahal; Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, at which Karissa and I stayed in the Maharani’s suite; and the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur, which T + L ranked as the best hotel in India. We did actually stay at one place that was not a five star hotel, but was rather, by my count, a five star heritage estate and guesthouse that sits on 30 acres and is run by members of the (now defunct) royal family. At Shahpura Bagh, we ate each delectable meal with the family, and were taken through their village and to their plantation, city palace ruins, and fortress ruins to watch a gorgeous sunset over the landscape below.
Considering the luxury with which we were surrounded, one might think we would never have wanted to leave the hotel. Not the case. Though we did thoroughly enjoy the many pleasures of each hotel, we were also quite dedicated to seeing as much of India as possible in the week and a half we were there. Our driver, his co-pilot, and the extremely congenial and knowledgeable tour guides that accompanied us in each city greatly facilitated this ambition. Consider that at any given time you might see people walking, people on bicycles, an entire family on one motorbike, a rickshaw, a car, a truck, a bus, a cow, a camel (being ridden), and an elephant (being ridden) all sharing the same road. This ever-present chaos, accompanied by the fact that the only traffic law in effect is “survival of the fittest,” made us particularly happy to have a professional driver who delivered us safe and sound to each destination. Some of these destinations, many of which are World Heritage Sites, included Humayun’s Tomb, Agra Fort, Fatehpur Sikri, Qutb Minar and its monuments, an 18th century astronomical observatory, Udaipur City Palace, and of course, the famed Taj Mahal. Having some expectations as to what my impression of the Taj Mahal would be was unavoidable, and I was slightly concerned that I might be let down. Ridiculous. Seeing the changing colors of the sunrise reflected upon the luminous white marble walls of the Taj could never be anything less than transcendent; nor could any appreciation of the infinite artistic elaboration upon every last millimeter of the structure ever fall short of overwhelming awe. To be honest, I was in a state of near-transcendence for the duration of the trip, stumbling wide-eyed and even a little teary-eyed from one glorious marvel to the next. Stumbling, and counting every last one of my lucky stars.
Friday, August 22, 2008
Live at the Lake: Bob Schneider
Bob Schneider. The man. The legend. Well, maybe not legendary like, say, Mick Jagger or Mozart. But an Austin legend, nonetheless. And considering that music is a large part of what Austin is about, one could say that Bob is doing pretty well for himself.
Although he perhaps first gained fame as the front man for The Scabs, Bob has played in numerous other bands in Austin, including Braniac, Joe Rockhead, and Ugly Americans. Now largely playing independently of The Scabs, Bob continues to garner eager support from Austinites, young and old alike. He has even generated a national (dare one say international?) fanbase, and frequently tours around the country. With Ugly Americans, he opened for Dave Matthews Band, certainly no small feat, and some of his songs have appeared in movies and in television shows. He has even appeared on the Tonight Show with Jay Leno. Fortunately for Austin, though, Bob continues playing a regular gig at the Saxon Pub on Monday nights, and frequently performs at other venues and events around the city such as Antones and the Keep Austin Weird Festival.
On a warm Sunday night this past August, one of these “other venues” at which Bob performs happened to be the Lakeway Resort & Spa, for the KGSR Live at the Lake concert series. With all deference to Bob, it’s hard to say which part of the experience was better: hearing Bob play, as he does so well, or enjoying the superb sensory experience that the locale itself provided. Seeing Bob play is always great. But seeing Bob play while sitting in one of the five gorgeous pools (one of which has a swim-up bar), fraternizing with friends, enjoying a beverage of choice, and watching a glorious sunset unfold behind the stage over Lake Travis and the surrounding hill country, well. . . that’s pretty much unbeatable. Apparently a significant number of others thought such an ingenious combination was too good to miss as well, because the turnout was absolutely spectacular. Just enough people to get friendly with the neighbors, not so many people that all the water in the pools was displaced.
All in all, Bob’s performance out at the Lakeway Resort & Spa turned out to be one legendary concert in a series of many more legendary concerts to come next summer. Stay tuned.
Although he perhaps first gained fame as the front man for The Scabs, Bob has played in numerous other bands in Austin, including Braniac, Joe Rockhead, and Ugly Americans. Now largely playing independently of The Scabs, Bob continues to garner eager support from Austinites, young and old alike. He has even generated a national (dare one say international?) fanbase, and frequently tours around the country. With Ugly Americans, he opened for Dave Matthews Band, certainly no small feat, and some of his songs have appeared in movies and in television shows. He has even appeared on the Tonight Show with Jay Leno. Fortunately for Austin, though, Bob continues playing a regular gig at the Saxon Pub on Monday nights, and frequently performs at other venues and events around the city such as Antones and the Keep Austin Weird Festival.
On a warm Sunday night this past August, one of these “other venues” at which Bob performs happened to be the Lakeway Resort & Spa, for the KGSR Live at the Lake concert series. With all deference to Bob, it’s hard to say which part of the experience was better: hearing Bob play, as he does so well, or enjoying the superb sensory experience that the locale itself provided. Seeing Bob play is always great. But seeing Bob play while sitting in one of the five gorgeous pools (one of which has a swim-up bar), fraternizing with friends, enjoying a beverage of choice, and watching a glorious sunset unfold behind the stage over Lake Travis and the surrounding hill country, well. . . that’s pretty much unbeatable. Apparently a significant number of others thought such an ingenious combination was too good to miss as well, because the turnout was absolutely spectacular. Just enough people to get friendly with the neighbors, not so many people that all the water in the pools was displaced.
All in all, Bob’s performance out at the Lakeway Resort & Spa turned out to be one legendary concert in a series of many more legendary concerts to come next summer. Stay tuned.
Live at the Lake: Grupo Fantasma
Grupo Fantasma: |groopo| |fantazmə|. Translates directly from the Spanish to mean “Phantom Group.” Also refers to an Austin-native musical powerhouse that has succeeded in amassing a sizeable band of devotees including, but not limited to, The Artist Formerly (and once again) Known As Prince.
Returning to the name of the band, let’s delve a little further into the latter half of the group’s moniker. One interpretation defines fantasma as “supposed spirits or disembodied souls that manifest themselves among the living in a perceptible form (for example, taking on a visible appearance, producing sounds or scents, or moving objects). The belief in phantoms . . . can be found throughout the world.” An apt definition indeed. The souls of the members of Grupo Fantasma are certainly detached from their bodies mid performance, every available ounce of energy and spirit flowing into their music. And the manifestation of the group is nothing if not perceptible: the sounds emanating from the stage are always rump-shaking rhythms that move anyone with a pulse. Is the belief in these “phantoms” found throughout the world? Just ask the 20,000 fans in London who were fortunate enough to see the band open for Prince; or the Premios de Musica Latina (Latin Music Awards) committee that awarded Grupo Fantasma the “Best Latin Rock,” “Best Band,” and “Best Latin Rock” awards in 2005, 2006, and 2007, respectively; or the Austinites who have voted them “Best Latin Band” or “Best Horns” eight times over at the Austin Music Awards in the past six years or so.
But enough with the credentials. As anyone who came out to this past summer’s phantasmagoric final concert at the Lakeway Resort & Spa for the KGSR Live at the Lake concert series knows, these guys rock. Plain and simple. Unfortunately, even Grupo Fantasma’s stellar reputation wasn’t enough to prevent some people from foregoing the concert due to some very threatening rain clouds. And rain it did. But only a little, and it was pretty difficult to avoid getting wet when the concert seats were in a pool. Strangely enough, though, Grupo Fantasma took the stage, the clouds got a little less threatening, and the party got started. Chalk it up to their fantastical and phantasmical powers.
Returning to the name of the band, let’s delve a little further into the latter half of the group’s moniker. One interpretation defines fantasma as “supposed spirits or disembodied souls that manifest themselves among the living in a perceptible form (for example, taking on a visible appearance, producing sounds or scents, or moving objects). The belief in phantoms . . . can be found throughout the world.” An apt definition indeed. The souls of the members of Grupo Fantasma are certainly detached from their bodies mid performance, every available ounce of energy and spirit flowing into their music. And the manifestation of the group is nothing if not perceptible: the sounds emanating from the stage are always rump-shaking rhythms that move anyone with a pulse. Is the belief in these “phantoms” found throughout the world? Just ask the 20,000 fans in London who were fortunate enough to see the band open for Prince; or the Premios de Musica Latina (Latin Music Awards) committee that awarded Grupo Fantasma the “Best Latin Rock,” “Best Band,” and “Best Latin Rock” awards in 2005, 2006, and 2007, respectively; or the Austinites who have voted them “Best Latin Band” or “Best Horns” eight times over at the Austin Music Awards in the past six years or so.
But enough with the credentials. As anyone who came out to this past summer’s phantasmagoric final concert at the Lakeway Resort & Spa for the KGSR Live at the Lake concert series knows, these guys rock. Plain and simple. Unfortunately, even Grupo Fantasma’s stellar reputation wasn’t enough to prevent some people from foregoing the concert due to some very threatening rain clouds. And rain it did. But only a little, and it was pretty difficult to avoid getting wet when the concert seats were in a pool. Strangely enough, though, Grupo Fantasma took the stage, the clouds got a little less threatening, and the party got started. Chalk it up to their fantastical and phantasmical powers.
Peaches and Berries and Squash, Oh My!
Except for folks living under a rock for the past few years, it’s hard to ignore the buzz generated by the weekly farmers’ markets that sell local produce, handcrafted goods and mouthwatering meals. A trip to one of these markets offers a wonderful way to spend an afternoon: lots of happy people milling about, buckets and tables bursting with delicious fresh produce and prepared foods, and the light of a sunny summer day casting a golden glow on everything. Shopping locally has a profound social, economic, and environmental impact on the world as well. Here are some of the basic facts about this relatively new trend in Austin.
One: Local farmers staff farmers’ markets. By default, it’s realistic only for those that live in the surrounding area to travel into town to sell their goods, and Austin Farmers’ Market actually restricts participating farms to within a 150-mile radius of the city (the exception being citrus farms). Two: Most farmers use sustainable farming methods. Sustainable farming is the ability of a farm to produce food indefinitely, while maintaining ecosystem health. Major concerns are the long-term effects of various farming practices on soil properties and processes essential for crop productivity and the long-term ability of farmers to manage resources such as labor. Three: Sustainable implies organic, whether or not the farm is actually USDA Organic certified. Since the certification process can be long, arduous and expensive, many farmers rely upon a general understanding that they employ environmentally conscious farming methods to bring delicious produce to the table responsibly. Four: Sustainable farming practices help reduce the “carbon footprint” people have on the environment. Everyone knows about global warming, but most people associate the problem primarily with “all those SUVs.” However, the amount of energy required to transport large quantities of produce across great distances (quickly enough so that it is fresh when it arrives) is enormous. Buying locally dramatically reduces this energy cost. And a greater sense of community is fostered because people naturally have a deeper feeling of responsibility toward and attachment to those that live in the same place as they do. Love thy neighbor, after all.
Beyond all this, the food and the atmosphere provide the real reasons for shopping the farmers’ markets. Imagine the hustle and bustle of a crowded market in Marrakesh, one bursting with exotic smells and the passionate cries of vendors hawking their wares. Austin’s farmers’ markets may be replete with sumptuous scents, but there is no need for much hawking: the goods at these markets sell themselves. Compare the crowded, tiled aisles at the supermarket with grassy lanes of goods in an open-air market. On Wednesday afternoons at the Austin Farmers’ Market at the Triangle downtown, children frolic in the fountain, keeping cool and keeping busy! Or, if a family has a baseball or softball game on Saturday at the Field of Dreams, they can pop across Highway 71 to the Bee Cave Farmers’ Market and walk away with a veritable cornucopia of delights.
There are two specific markets to keep in mind; the first is the Austin Farmers’ Market. Austin Farmers’ Market sets up shop two days a week. The Saturday market runs from 9 am – 1 pm and is located downtown in Republic Square (4th and Guadalupe); the Wednesday market runs from 4 pm – 8 pm and is located inside the Triangle (the new development up north where Guadalupe and Lamar merge). The Austin Farmers’ Market, run by the Sustainable Food Center, has been around for five years now, the Wednesday market being added only a few months ago. And in those five years, the market has grown to accommodate approximately 50 vendors, with further expansion in the future projected as both community interest and awareness increase. Vendors at the Austin Farmers’ Market include farms, ranches, dairies, nurseries, restaurants, food booths and artisans and offer fresh fruits and veggies, handmade crafts, meat practically straight from the cow, and cheese from a goat that probably has a name and his own room in the vendor’s barn. And, to top it off, there is always live music at each market to make the shopping experience that much more pleasurable, providing yet another reason to visit the farmers’ market instead of the supermarket: local, live performances rather than elevator music!
Not convinced that our Hill Country offers the best produce available? Well, there are more than a few restaurants in Austin that disagree. Eastside Café serves as a prime example of how to reduce one’s carbon footprint when dining out and does so in style. A vendor at the Austin Farmers’ Market, Eastside Café uses as much local product as possible. In fact, the restaurant has its own garden in back of the restaurant from which much of the food on the menu is harvested. It doesn’t get fresher than that. At an Edible Austin meet-and-greet, showcasing Austin-area restaurants that use local products, a few powerhouses such as The Driskill, Aquarelle and Cibo were present and provided delicious samples. Their chefs seem to think local goods are the way to go, and they probably know what they’re talking about. Even some of the more casual food providers, like Chomp, Boomerangs, ChowBaby, and Deli Bento agree. Local is in.
The Bee Cave Farmers’ Market, open Saturdays 9 am–2 pm and located on Highway 71 about a mile west of the RR 620 intersection, is also an excellent option. Started just over a year ago with only ten vendors, this little “engine that could” has had up to 60 participating vendors and has 20 or so consistently in attendance. South Austin Jug Band played their Fourth of July market in 2006; there was an Oktoberfest market last year, and the market also hosts charity events. Keeping the kids entertained is a common theme between these two markets: at the Bee Cave Farmers’ Market, there is an inflatable moonwalk and face painting.
Not to be bested by the Austin Farmers’ Market, the Bee Cave Farmers’ Market plays with the big boys too. Restaurants such as Moonshine, Bee Cave Bistro, and the Clubhouse Grille at the Spanish Oaks Country Club have all bought items from this market and incorporated their purchases into exceptionally delectable dishes. Some are convinced that a personal rapport with the grower actually improves the flavor of dishes prepared. Imagine eating a tomato and shaking the hand that plucked it off the vine! And, most markets encourage sampling. Chef Vincent makes some mean salsa and has won numerous awards that prove it. The Vegan Kitchen sells some superb vegan food made with local produce. There’s a smoothie stand. If nothing else, it is a farmers’ market. Go ahead… bite into that amazingly juicy peach.
Here are some of the tasty treats to throw on a grocery list before the first trip: tomatoes and garlic from outside of Marfa; blackberries from Pittsburg (Texas, of course); peaches! squash and zucchini from Fredericksburg; blueberries, strawberries, and okra from somewhere nearby; carrots, radishes, and scallions from Cat Spring (outside of Houston); onions and garlic from Blackland Prairies; and spectacular Fig Balsamic Vinaigrette, made by Bistro Blends out of Spicewood.
Grab a basket and give it a try.
One: Local farmers staff farmers’ markets. By default, it’s realistic only for those that live in the surrounding area to travel into town to sell their goods, and Austin Farmers’ Market actually restricts participating farms to within a 150-mile radius of the city (the exception being citrus farms). Two: Most farmers use sustainable farming methods. Sustainable farming is the ability of a farm to produce food indefinitely, while maintaining ecosystem health. Major concerns are the long-term effects of various farming practices on soil properties and processes essential for crop productivity and the long-term ability of farmers to manage resources such as labor. Three: Sustainable implies organic, whether or not the farm is actually USDA Organic certified. Since the certification process can be long, arduous and expensive, many farmers rely upon a general understanding that they employ environmentally conscious farming methods to bring delicious produce to the table responsibly. Four: Sustainable farming practices help reduce the “carbon footprint” people have on the environment. Everyone knows about global warming, but most people associate the problem primarily with “all those SUVs.” However, the amount of energy required to transport large quantities of produce across great distances (quickly enough so that it is fresh when it arrives) is enormous. Buying locally dramatically reduces this energy cost. And a greater sense of community is fostered because people naturally have a deeper feeling of responsibility toward and attachment to those that live in the same place as they do. Love thy neighbor, after all.
Beyond all this, the food and the atmosphere provide the real reasons for shopping the farmers’ markets. Imagine the hustle and bustle of a crowded market in Marrakesh, one bursting with exotic smells and the passionate cries of vendors hawking their wares. Austin’s farmers’ markets may be replete with sumptuous scents, but there is no need for much hawking: the goods at these markets sell themselves. Compare the crowded, tiled aisles at the supermarket with grassy lanes of goods in an open-air market. On Wednesday afternoons at the Austin Farmers’ Market at the Triangle downtown, children frolic in the fountain, keeping cool and keeping busy! Or, if a family has a baseball or softball game on Saturday at the Field of Dreams, they can pop across Highway 71 to the Bee Cave Farmers’ Market and walk away with a veritable cornucopia of delights.
There are two specific markets to keep in mind; the first is the Austin Farmers’ Market. Austin Farmers’ Market sets up shop two days a week. The Saturday market runs from 9 am – 1 pm and is located downtown in Republic Square (4th and Guadalupe); the Wednesday market runs from 4 pm – 8 pm and is located inside the Triangle (the new development up north where Guadalupe and Lamar merge). The Austin Farmers’ Market, run by the Sustainable Food Center, has been around for five years now, the Wednesday market being added only a few months ago. And in those five years, the market has grown to accommodate approximately 50 vendors, with further expansion in the future projected as both community interest and awareness increase. Vendors at the Austin Farmers’ Market include farms, ranches, dairies, nurseries, restaurants, food booths and artisans and offer fresh fruits and veggies, handmade crafts, meat practically straight from the cow, and cheese from a goat that probably has a name and his own room in the vendor’s barn. And, to top it off, there is always live music at each market to make the shopping experience that much more pleasurable, providing yet another reason to visit the farmers’ market instead of the supermarket: local, live performances rather than elevator music!
Not convinced that our Hill Country offers the best produce available? Well, there are more than a few restaurants in Austin that disagree. Eastside Café serves as a prime example of how to reduce one’s carbon footprint when dining out and does so in style. A vendor at the Austin Farmers’ Market, Eastside Café uses as much local product as possible. In fact, the restaurant has its own garden in back of the restaurant from which much of the food on the menu is harvested. It doesn’t get fresher than that. At an Edible Austin meet-and-greet, showcasing Austin-area restaurants that use local products, a few powerhouses such as The Driskill, Aquarelle and Cibo were present and provided delicious samples. Their chefs seem to think local goods are the way to go, and they probably know what they’re talking about. Even some of the more casual food providers, like Chomp, Boomerangs, ChowBaby, and Deli Bento agree. Local is in.
The Bee Cave Farmers’ Market, open Saturdays 9 am–2 pm and located on Highway 71 about a mile west of the RR 620 intersection, is also an excellent option. Started just over a year ago with only ten vendors, this little “engine that could” has had up to 60 participating vendors and has 20 or so consistently in attendance. South Austin Jug Band played their Fourth of July market in 2006; there was an Oktoberfest market last year, and the market also hosts charity events. Keeping the kids entertained is a common theme between these two markets: at the Bee Cave Farmers’ Market, there is an inflatable moonwalk and face painting.
Not to be bested by the Austin Farmers’ Market, the Bee Cave Farmers’ Market plays with the big boys too. Restaurants such as Moonshine, Bee Cave Bistro, and the Clubhouse Grille at the Spanish Oaks Country Club have all bought items from this market and incorporated their purchases into exceptionally delectable dishes. Some are convinced that a personal rapport with the grower actually improves the flavor of dishes prepared. Imagine eating a tomato and shaking the hand that plucked it off the vine! And, most markets encourage sampling. Chef Vincent makes some mean salsa and has won numerous awards that prove it. The Vegan Kitchen sells some superb vegan food made with local produce. There’s a smoothie stand. If nothing else, it is a farmers’ market. Go ahead… bite into that amazingly juicy peach.
Here are some of the tasty treats to throw on a grocery list before the first trip: tomatoes and garlic from outside of Marfa; blackberries from Pittsburg (Texas, of course); peaches! squash and zucchini from Fredericksburg; blueberries, strawberries, and okra from somewhere nearby; carrots, radishes, and scallions from Cat Spring (outside of Houston); onions and garlic from Blackland Prairies; and spectacular Fig Balsamic Vinaigrette, made by Bistro Blends out of Spicewood.
Grab a basket and give it a try.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Hotel Chelsea
Wired's Listening Post blogs about one of my favorite NYC haunts, the Hotel Chelsea.
I first stayed at the Chelsea on my virgin visit to the city, en route to Spain to study abroad for a year. My then boyfriend and I showed up with no hotel reservation, no list of affordable hotels and addresses, and not a single phone number. Naturally. So, we jumped in a cab at the airport and requested that the cab driver take us "somewhere affordable in Manhattan." After two attempts at some not-so-affordable hotels, he ended up dropping us at the Hotel Chelsea. We knew nothing about its history, we only knew that it looked like our kind of place. And it was. As we were staying for 5 days, we managed to work out a reasonable extended-stay rate, and were put in a large room overlooking the street. To this day, my favorite detail of the Chelsea is the crown moulding: although it was large and highly detailed in the antique style, you wouldn't have known it for the hundreds of layers of paint that had been lathered over the wood. If an ethnoarchaeologist were to conduct a study of the paint, surely the equally layered history of the Hotel's residents would emerge, providing an elaborate cross-section of beauty, blood dust, and betrayal.
After spending a few nights there, we came to learn of the Chelsea's famous residents and their histories, tragic or otherwise. More interesting than the ghosts of artists past, though, were the ghosts of artists present. Chimeric works of art were scattered haphazardly throughout the Hotel, and any amount of wandering and (slightly tremulous) corner-turning would always bring you upon some new and disconcerting discovery. Some of it was good. Some of it was not. But some of it still haunts me today, and I wonder what became of the artist whose works I passed every day along the wrought-iron staircase.
I recently revisited the Chelsea, bringing a friend and long-time resident of the city to the Hotel for her first time. And even though more than four years had passed since my initial encounter, I was still instantly transported into the time-warp that the place is, taken back into an undefinable era that was nevertheless unquestionably not this one. There is something about a building in which the light is always somewhat sinister and the ghosts are never quite silent that sends a chill up your spine on even the warmest summer day. But then again, that's exactly why you go there.
I first stayed at the Chelsea on my virgin visit to the city, en route to Spain to study abroad for a year. My then boyfriend and I showed up with no hotel reservation, no list of affordable hotels and addresses, and not a single phone number. Naturally. So, we jumped in a cab at the airport and requested that the cab driver take us "somewhere affordable in Manhattan." After two attempts at some not-so-affordable hotels, he ended up dropping us at the Hotel Chelsea. We knew nothing about its history, we only knew that it looked like our kind of place. And it was. As we were staying for 5 days, we managed to work out a reasonable extended-stay rate, and were put in a large room overlooking the street. To this day, my favorite detail of the Chelsea is the crown moulding: although it was large and highly detailed in the antique style, you wouldn't have known it for the hundreds of layers of paint that had been lathered over the wood. If an ethnoarchaeologist were to conduct a study of the paint, surely the equally layered history of the Hotel's residents would emerge, providing an elaborate cross-section of beauty, blood dust, and betrayal.
After spending a few nights there, we came to learn of the Chelsea's famous residents and their histories, tragic or otherwise. More interesting than the ghosts of artists past, though, were the ghosts of artists present. Chimeric works of art were scattered haphazardly throughout the Hotel, and any amount of wandering and (slightly tremulous) corner-turning would always bring you upon some new and disconcerting discovery. Some of it was good. Some of it was not. But some of it still haunts me today, and I wonder what became of the artist whose works I passed every day along the wrought-iron staircase.
I recently revisited the Chelsea, bringing a friend and long-time resident of the city to the Hotel for her first time. And even though more than four years had passed since my initial encounter, I was still instantly transported into the time-warp that the place is, taken back into an undefinable era that was nevertheless unquestionably not this one. There is something about a building in which the light is always somewhat sinister and the ghosts are never quite silent that sends a chill up your spine on even the warmest summer day. But then again, that's exactly why you go there.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Read how you want. Just as long as you read.
“Print is Dead” might well be the defining maxim of this day and information age: since the advent of electronic publishing, a vast number of articles, essays, and books have attempted the divine reading of hard copy’s viscera, and the final verdicts are about as telling as a fortune cookie. It’s true that printed books will never become obsolete, because as all book fetishists (as they’re deemed) will attest, there is no substitute for the sensual experience of a book. You can’t walk into a digital library and shed a tear at the beauty of the stacks, and you can’t get that antique bookstore smell in a bottle, at least not yet. However, the unquestionable importance and potential of digital media cannot be dismissed. Pioneering e-projects such as Project Gutenberg, Openlibrary.org, Internet Archive, and even Wikipedia have categorically proven that the future of educational information dissemination lies within the virtual realm. When one compares and contrasts, in principle, the viable effectiveness of Room to Read’s noble mission to build educational infrastructure in developing countries (initially by focusing on bringing physical books to negligible or non-existent libraries) with the potential efficacy of any online organization with similar goals, the result is clear: virtual is better. And considering that humanity’s existence, proliferation, and ability to improve quality of life is directly linked to our ability to educate ourselves, this is an important point. As Brewster Kahle notes in episode 144 of TwiT, “People are turning to their computer now to answer questions…If it’s not on the internet, it doesn’t exist.” But, fortunately for book fetishists and bibliophiles, the two mediums are not mutually exclusive. The Observer's literary editor Robert McCrum best sums up the symbiotic relationship of print and e-publishing in a fascinating article recapping the last ten years in the literary world: “…the Kindle and its e-book competitors will not kill the book but happily co-exist with it in a bright new bi-literary environment.”
On both sides of the battle, though, it’s two steps forward and one step backward. In a positive advancement for print publishing, a new company called Read How You Want has jumped on the customizability bandwagon, providing a wide variety of printing methods for special-needs readers. Whether a reader simply requires large print or something as particular as textual assistance in word tracking and character distinguishment, the company offers research-backed, individualized custom printing solutions, as well as e-books and MP3 audio books. By recognizing the long-tail viability of printing marginalized content, Read How You Want is joining the ranks of related print-on-demand publishers. Joanne Hamilton-Selway, quoted in a Publishers Weekly article about the company, hits the nail right on the head: “People are more vocal about what they want and about their right to have it…They consider it both a privilege and a right.” And it is – if one can get customized toenail clippers, one should surely be able to customize something a tad more…important. But as the saying goes, “every party has a pooper,” and that’s where Indiana’s state law regarding sexually explicit materials (e.g., books, magazines, etc.) comes into play. This new law mandates that any person who “intends to offer for sale or sell sexually explicit materials shall register with the secretary of state the intent to offer for sale or sell sexually explicit materials and provide a statement detailing the types of materials that the person intends to offer for sale or sell.” Oh, and said person must also pay $250. Why, when print publishing and physical bookstores are already having such a hard time keeping up with the Joneses, would a government act in such a futile and counter-productive manner against print?
On the flip side of the coin, one sees similar advances and backtrackings in e-media. As renowned economist Robert Solow grumbled, "You can see the computer age everywhere but in the productivity statistics." In the 2007 National Endowment for the Arts report entitled “To Read or Not To Read: A Question of National Consequence,” it appears as though Solow’s proclamation rings true. Although internet access coupled with the quantity – and occasionally, quality – of content has exponentially increased over the past few years, people’s ability to synthesize this gluttonous wealth of information has simultaneously decreased; it is widely accepted that people’s attention spans have dramatically decreased, as well. Thus, this conundrum begs the question: if people are less and less able to meaningfully utilize the near-infinite amount of information at their fingertips, what benefit is there in having said information accessible? Before your head explodes, understand that I am no Luddite. I firmly believe that *all information should be accessible at all times, because ultimately even the most mundane “orphan book” might be useful to someone. And of course, the only viable way to achieve such a goal is via the Internet. However, before we as a world society get too bogged down in the debate between print versus electronic publication, we should focus upon how we can employ this “bi-literary environment” to regain what we are on the verge of losing, what we gained at the beginning of history when writing was first employed: the ability to meaningfully communicate.
*with considerations of appropriate context, maturity, etc., of course
Update: nowhere is the importance of reading more eloquently stated than here.
On both sides of the battle, though, it’s two steps forward and one step backward. In a positive advancement for print publishing, a new company called Read How You Want has jumped on the customizability bandwagon, providing a wide variety of printing methods for special-needs readers. Whether a reader simply requires large print or something as particular as textual assistance in word tracking and character distinguishment, the company offers research-backed, individualized custom printing solutions, as well as e-books and MP3 audio books. By recognizing the long-tail viability of printing marginalized content, Read How You Want is joining the ranks of related print-on-demand publishers. Joanne Hamilton-Selway, quoted in a Publishers Weekly article about the company, hits the nail right on the head: “People are more vocal about what they want and about their right to have it…They consider it both a privilege and a right.” And it is – if one can get customized toenail clippers, one should surely be able to customize something a tad more…important. But as the saying goes, “every party has a pooper,” and that’s where Indiana’s state law regarding sexually explicit materials (e.g., books, magazines, etc.) comes into play. This new law mandates that any person who “intends to offer for sale or sell sexually explicit materials shall register with the secretary of state the intent to offer for sale or sell sexually explicit materials and provide a statement detailing the types of materials that the person intends to offer for sale or sell.” Oh, and said person must also pay $250. Why, when print publishing and physical bookstores are already having such a hard time keeping up with the Joneses, would a government act in such a futile and counter-productive manner against print?
On the flip side of the coin, one sees similar advances and backtrackings in e-media. As renowned economist Robert Solow grumbled, "You can see the computer age everywhere but in the productivity statistics." In the 2007 National Endowment for the Arts report entitled “To Read or Not To Read: A Question of National Consequence,” it appears as though Solow’s proclamation rings true. Although internet access coupled with the quantity – and occasionally, quality – of content has exponentially increased over the past few years, people’s ability to synthesize this gluttonous wealth of information has simultaneously decreased; it is widely accepted that people’s attention spans have dramatically decreased, as well. Thus, this conundrum begs the question: if people are less and less able to meaningfully utilize the near-infinite amount of information at their fingertips, what benefit is there in having said information accessible? Before your head explodes, understand that I am no Luddite. I firmly believe that *all information should be accessible at all times, because ultimately even the most mundane “orphan book” might be useful to someone. And of course, the only viable way to achieve such a goal is via the Internet. However, before we as a world society get too bogged down in the debate between print versus electronic publication, we should focus upon how we can employ this “bi-literary environment” to regain what we are on the verge of losing, what we gained at the beginning of history when writing was first employed: the ability to meaningfully communicate.
*with considerations of appropriate context, maturity, etc., of course
Update: nowhere is the importance of reading more eloquently stated than here.
Sometimes I aspirate without realizing that I'm breathing
According to an article in The Chicago Tribune, Senator Phil Boots, in response to the controversial Indiana Law 1042 regarding sexually explicit materials, said that "some of us vote without realizing what we're voting for...I think there might have been more opposition if people had actually considered [the proposition] more."
Democratic Representative Matthew Pierce elaborated upon his colleagues' propensity to vote by closing their eyes, holding their arm out with their pointer finger extended, and spinning in a circle, saying "I think a lot of people figured, 'I'm not going to put myself in the position of having to explain why I voted against protecting kids from sexually explicit material. If it's unconstitutional, the courts will take care of it.' "
In other news, Ken Blackwell pokes an innocent bystander's eye out while playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey.
Democratic Representative Matthew Pierce elaborated upon his colleagues' propensity to vote by closing their eyes, holding their arm out with their pointer finger extended, and spinning in a circle, saying "I think a lot of people figured, 'I'm not going to put myself in the position of having to explain why I voted against protecting kids from sexually explicit material. If it's unconstitutional, the courts will take care of it.' "
In other news, Ken Blackwell pokes an innocent bystander's eye out while playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey.
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